Christian Dior Pre-Fall 2022 Collection
Maria Grazia Chiuri slapped a full counter-reading of the received legend of what the world thinks Christian Dior looked like with his new pre-fall collection. âEven I had stereotypes [about Dior] when I entered the house, âshe said. “But it’s a simplification of his job.” It’s a bit of a surprise: Instead of an excursion into romance and fragility, she lined up a gang of young women wearing punk tartans, biker shorts, jackets and ties, and rebellious school uniforms. .
Chiuri described how his thought process was sparked by once again looking at Dior‘s close relationships with the women around him. One was the enormous influence of her heroic sister Catherine, whose little-known life as a member of the French resistance has been painstakingly and shockingly documented by Justine Picardie in her new book Miss Dior. âShe was a courageous and unconventional woman,â Chiuri says. Others include the strong-witted figures who helped him build his house: the flamboyant and eccentric Mitzah Bricard, a lover of the leopard spot; Suzanne Luling, her press secretary and childhood friend; and Madame Raymonde Zehnacker, director of the Dior design studio.
Chiuri’s research in the archives – even proof of the variety of figures she says she saw there – gave her a very different take on the stories that were written about Christian Dior after his death in 1957. These stories tend to paint him as the lone genius who put women in the corseted escape dresses that revolutionized fashion with his New Look of 1947. “The truth is that the house of Christian Dior was a community of men and women, together.”
“The first thing that put me on alert was to read his autobiography Dior and I,Chiuri says. Her voice seemed to hint at a much more nuanced narrative than the monolithic mythology that was incorporated into the posthumous story. “He could do a stern gray suit or the Miss Dior couture dress full of flowers. The contradiction is part of the beauty of fashion.
Of course, the pursuit of contemporary relevance – the task any creative director of Christian Dior undertakes, season after season – it all depends on who is watching and when. What Chiuri has built her reputation on is seeking out threads of brotherhood (a theme that has literally become the woven backdrop of her latest haute couture collection) and opportunities for feminist messaging on t-shirts for women. Generation Z.
This time, in the midst of androgynous and sporty pieces, the slogan of the season is signed Simone de Beauvoir: âFemininity is a trap. Turns out that is the title of an article she wrote for Vogue in March 1947. Incredible to think: our great-grandmothers read it here first.