Gucci Vault, mirrored shows across continents and bohemian catharsis – Glossy
The Milan runways have not been physical for more than 18 months, since the pandemic hit Italy and caused the runway fashion world to go into isolation. The idea of a renaissance in various forms had been debated since the parade format had gone digital: should the fashion week schedule change? How should designers work around the perpetual demand for novelty? For Italian houses such as Gucci, Versace and Marni, the answers have come in different forms.
For Gucci, this meant launching Gucci chest, a continuation of the collaboration between independent designers and the brand launched with GucciFest 2020, the festival aimed at replacing their seasonal shows. The Vault was launched with a physical exhibit in Milan featuring vintage styles among neon walls and an old-fashioned computer on which the Vault website was displayed. The Gucci Vault is the next of Alessandro’s cross-brand “contaminations”, started with Balenciaga and the the north face. Similar to the retro Ganni website of 2020 designed by the Moon Agency, the Vault encompasses gamification to fuel many discoveries. Following the success of the festival in 2020, eThe brand recorded a 25% increase in revenue in the first quarter of 2021, marking a comeback after a tumultuous year.
The Gucci Vault expands the Gucci universe in an online space and features restored vintage pieces and exclusive items from almost all of the 15 designers initially presented at the festival. (Mowalola and Gareth Wrighton are not included.) Programming includes Ahluwalia, Shanel Campbell, Stefan Cooke, Cormio, Charles de Vilmorin, JordanLuca, Yueqi Qi, Rave Review, Gui Rosa, Bianca Saunders, CFDA /Vogue Fashion Fund finalist Collina Strada, Boramy Viguier and Rui Zhou, finalist for the LVMH prize. In a statement, Gucci said the Vault “speaks of the belief that the past, present and future can coexist through the power of the imagination.” He will focus in the future on integrating more designers into the collaborative space and ensuring a constant supply of vintage Gucci and the works of his proteges. Her next show is scheduled for November 2 in Los Angeles, coinciding with the 10th LACMA Art + Film Gala, which Gucci is sponsoring.
This support for young fashion insiders by the main fashion conglomerates also extends to LVMH, which recently announcement it will add 25,000 people under the age of 30 around the world to its workforce as part of the #CrafttheFuture initiative. The program aims to accommodate the growing demand for craftsmen and luxury goods.
Digital shows across continents: Prada and Mongenius
Gucci’s online stint was echoed in mirrored digital shows at Milan Fashion Week. This included Mondogenius, Moncler’s hybrid presentation that took place in Milan, Shanghai, Tokyo, Seoul and New York. Meanwhile, Prada hosted an IRL show in Milan with screen “portals” to Shanghai, where a similar show took place, featuring models with digitally enhanced hair. From a business point of view, these international companies show the importance of China in the fashion show calendar. The country has rebounded in luxury fashion sales after a relatively rapid recovery from the pandemic. While the global luxury market shrank 23% in 2020, according to Bath and company, in mainland China, the market share increased from about 11% to 20%. Moncler Genius collaborations with designers including Pierpaolo Piccioli by Valentino, Craig Green and Simone Rocha have enjoyed incredible success on social media, bringing media value to the heritage ski brand.
Mondogenius Presentation introduced art, music, sport and cinema to the fashion world of Moncler with a site that allows the user to go from city to city and various presentations, online. In a statement, CEO Remo Ruffini said: “Today it’s not just about products, but more about our communities and the culture that we want to shape together. The world changes. People don’t want the same things they did before; they demand and expect more from brands. Today we need to find new ways to connect and engage, pioneering new messages. The development of online spaces clearly indicates a shift towards brand metavers, or digital spaces where brands can draw on different types of content to attract fans accustomed to online communities.
From 90s models to TikTok stars: Fendace, the exchange between Fendi and Versace
In a move similar to the collaborations of streetwear giants like Supreme x Rimowa, Italian houses Versace and Fendi have traded their creative directors for a show, with Kim Jones and Silvia Venturini-Fendi designing for Versace and Donatella Versace creating for Fendi. The result: an archive look at the two brands through their union “Fendace”, sprinkled with logomania. He was described in the press release as being “about the need for sincerity in fashion today, rather than strategy”. Versace also had their main show during the week, with singer Dua Lipa taking the stage.
From chainmail dresses to the union of the Fendi monogram with Versace’s famous Greek key, the collection explored the maximalism that reigned in the two brands’ collections in the 90s. also seen through the casting choices, which brought together the biggest modeling stars of yesterday and today. Kristen McMenamy opened the show and Naomi Campbell closed it in a pink chainmail dress. Kate Moss and Amber Valletta also made a duo appearance halfway through. The show was also one of the few in Milan to incorporate size inclusivity, with Paloma Elsesser and Precious Lee joining the lineup, along with Karen Elson, Mariacarla Boscono and Shalom Harlow.
The show Fendace resonated with young audiences and was particularly popular on TikTok under the hashtag #fendace (9.4 million views), with one of the platform’s biggest stars Addison rae attend the show. The exchange shows a defining trend towards brands that create together. From Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons to Gucci and Balenciaga, brands are careful not to call them “collaborations”, but rather partnerships, exchanges and exchanges – like an exchange of value, perhaps.
Marni: The Emotional Release of MFW
The Marni show read like a highlight of last year’s events and included emotional feelings of a pandemic, with singer Zsela singing “Guide You Home” alongside a full chorus. Striped mannequins moved around the circular stage of the amphitheater and among the guests, who were also dressed in the collection. The show was a highlight of the Milan Fashion Week lineup, leveraging an art school performance to talk about the diversity and inclusiveness that had become a major talking point throughout. throughout the pandemic. Dev Hynes was in charge of the music and poet Mykki Blanco gave a spoken word performance, encapsulating the multidisciplinary nature of the week’s most successful shows.