The top 5 spring trends from Chanel, Balenciaga and more
WHICH ARE fashion shows for? We’ve asked ourselves this question a lot, and it seems many designers were thinking about it as well as they embarked on the first full list of in-person catwalks in New York, London, Paris and Milan since early 2020. While aware of the restrictions of Covid, brands have found a way to open the party to a wider audience than regular publishers and buyers. In a particularly original reinvention of the standard format, the creative director of Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia, organized a screening in Paris, with red carpet, of a film produced in collaboration with the creative team of “The Simpsons”. The brand also posted the (hilarious) short for everyone to see on YouTube.
In New York City, Tory Burch took to a block of Mercer Street, the site of her new boutique, for a festive street fair that she kicked off with a cobblestone parade. In Paris, Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli infiltrated the Carreau du Temple market square with models parading in front of unpretentious cafe dwellers. And all over the City of Lights, uninvited fashion fans gathered on the outskirts of the parades to applaud. During the Chloé outing on the banks of the Seine, producer Alexandre de Betak marveled at how followers always manage to find the best perch to watch the show from a distance. “It’s like they have a Parisian sixth sense,” he said.
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Beyond making shows more accessible, designers have also collaborated more easily with each other. In an unthinkable blow to the more competitive atmosphere of decades past, Fendi’s Donatella Versace and Kim Jones have joined forces on a double collection dubbed “Fendace” in Milan, modeled by icons like Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss against a backdrop of ivy loaded with logos. “We’ve all been locked in and it’s kind of a celebration that we can come together,” Mr Jones said in the collection’s creation video.
On the season’s closing night, 45 impressive designers, including legends like Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren and Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons, gathered in Paris to pay tribute to designer Alber Elbaz, who died of Covid in April, with looks they had created for their AZ Factory line. The moment spoke poignantly of all that has been lost over the past year for Covid, as well as the creative spirit of an industry that persists.
Talk about the flow
It seems unlikely that all Spring branded windbreakers are weatherproof, but these fusions of retro sportiness (remember the limbs only?) And outright glamor look cool. From left to right : Valentinothe bright purple option of; a loose jacket in contrasting colors by Loewe; a dramatic refreshing mint scent of
; Tom fordthe sublime sequin style which, let’s be serious, is more suitable for indoor parties than any flurry; TodThe totally practical mustard design of, shown belted for a flattering effect.
The designers seem to have sensed that after a year of sweatpants some women want to go out and show it all. Result: a multitude of styles inspired by shapewear. From left to right : Balmainthe cold shoulder separates;
naked taking of; Balenciagalingerie-ish iteration of ‘; Saint Laurentthe scandalous flowers of ‘; Chanelnaughty tank top from the 90s.
Small but mighty
Mini skirts have been reinvented as casual clothing for spring, paired with flats, sweaters and leather jackets. From left to right: a gray of Max Mara; an elegant and mod mini-suit of Dior; pockets and stripes Courrèges; Loewethe high-low glitter rendering of; Pradathe mule-shaped design, with a dramatic train.
Fashion says to relax
Languid and comfortable pants seem a wise way to go from WFH style to an outfit out of the ordinary. From left to right: relaxed polishing of the Line; a cropped style of
; Miu Miuthe sluggish return of the early 2000s; a spacious white pair by Hermes; Tory Burchthe belted version.
The crisp shirt dressing took an avant-garde twist on the spring runways, offering a fresh take on the classic concept and a blank slate. From left to right : Gabriela Hearstthe strapless goddess dress in raffia and pleated cotton veil; a complex and layered look of Marine Serre; voluminous separates at Alaïa;
the oversized option; an elegant and elaborate interpretation by Simone Rocha.
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